Sam
Gradess analyses the uniqueness of Burkinabé. Drawing from everyday life
experiences, he explains how a stranger would be hard-pressed to find a place
as welcoming as Burkina Faso. Its people and their way of life spells nothing
but tolerance and an appreciation for the humanity that almost spells paradise.
When Thomas Sankara, often revered as West Africa’s Che Guevara, became president of Upper Volta, one of his many lauded executive declarations was to rename the country Burkina Faso. The new name signifies in French Le pays des hommes integres or, in English, The Land of the Upright People.
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| Thomas Sankara, often regarded as Africa's Che Guevara, was the president of Upper Volta (present day Burkina Faso). |
Like many other West African nations, Burkina Faso is known
for housing diverse ethnic groups, including over sixty native, nomadic, or
recently immigrated peoples. The Mossi’s
being the largest group, have built their empire around Burkina’s capital
Ouagadougou over several centuries.
Leaving this region, older generations of Mossi are easily identified by
traditional scars on their faces. Though
a fading practice, facial scarification was used to determine regional origin
and social rank. It is rare to see young
children with these marks on their face, but if a Mossi mother fell ill during
childbirth, the child would often have scars cut outward around the navel,
resembling the sun. The group claims origins in Ghana, Chad, or somewhere along
the Niger River,
none of which intersect at any point, thus leaving the topic open for debate.
Though Dioula is the second most popular language in Burkina
Faso, it does not correspond with one highly populated ethnic group. While the umbrella ethnic group Mande is
highly present in western Burkina, most Burkinabè identify with their subgroup,
whether Bobo, Samo, Bwa, or Dafine. The
language itself has been a vehicle for trade and the spread of Islam for centuries and its use gains
access to other countries in the region including Mali, Cote d’Ivoire, and
Guinea, which all speak derivatives of this langue
des commerçants.
This is a very surface-level description of just a few of
the ethnic groups inhabiting Burkina Faso.
Interestingly enough, most of these ethnic groups are not tied to any
specific religion. The three most
popular religions, Islam, Catholicism, and Protestantism, are found in the
farthest corners of every Burkina region.
Living in a Mossi district, I have two neighbors who are devout Muslims,
one who is Catholic, and another who is Protestant. This precedent holds true across the map of
Burkina, regardless of ethnicity. The
possible mélange of ethnic origin combined with religious practice are thus
infinite. Furthermore, each religion’s
holidays, be it Christmas, Tabaski
or Ascension,
double as national holidays for all of Burkina Faso’s citizens.
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| During Tabaski (a name commonly used in West Africa for the Muslim holiday, Eid-ul-Adha) rams are slaughtered as a sacrifice. Large meals are prepared and shared among family, friends, and neighbors. |
When I observed Eid ul-Fitr, the feast marking the end of
the fasting period of Ramadan, I was an honored guest in many Muslim households
and ate to my heart’s content and to my stomach’s discontent. Seventy days later, celebrating Eid ul-Adha,
the feast commemorating Abraham’s sacrifice, I noticed both Catholic and Protestant
Burkinabè visiting various family compounds, wishing wealth and success to
their Muslim counterparts, and even offering a part of their feast. On both Easter and Christmas day, my Muslim
neighbors equally invited me to celebrate in their homes.
This sense of revelry imbued in the daily lives of Burkinabè
has promoted equal interest and acceptance among neighbors and friends,
regardless of ethnic origin or religion.
I recall many American friends showing concern for my entry into a
majority-Islamic country, especially since Peace Corps Niger
was evacuated due to a resurgence of terrorism targeting Westerners. After a year of living here, I am consumed
with Burkinabès’ dearth of extremism, which weaves into the patchwork of their
daily lives. For example, when there is
a conflict of any sort, it is usually resolved with ease for fear of disrupting
the peace of tomorrow. Whenever a
disagreement arises and someone holds even the slightest grudge, many jump to
say, “il ne pense pas à demain” (he
is not thinking about tomorrow). Honing
this practice of keeping the peace among even the most minimal relationships
has proven onerous, as it is not a natural American custom.
Further evidence of tolerance can be found in the playful
interactions among different ethnic groups. I once overheard my language
teacher ask the passenger next to her to close the window to stop the entry of
dust, referring to him as her slave. Due
to the historical power dynamics of many ethnic groups, many Burkinabè hold on
to these denotations, whether they are a grandfather, uncle, cousin, or yes,
slave. These names are, however, mere
jocular ways of creating friendship and rarely if ever lead to anger or
issue. The passenger had a good chuckle,
opened the window, and entered a lengthy discussion about his travel plans with
my teacher.
My sojourn in Burkina Faso has
been free of fear or insecurity because the people of Burkina Faso are not
easily aroused by anger or injustice.
When the electricity is cut while I am typing a document or when my bike
tire goes flat, I can easily elicit a smile from any Burkinabè who views my
subsequent rage as foreign. The calm manière de vivre dispels any notion that
people fear of visiting a predominantly Muslim nation. Their mutual respect and acceptance of
family, neighbors, friends, and foreigners serves as a model for communities
around the world who engage in backstabbing or slander. Though Burkinabè never know what will happen
tomorrow, they take comfort waking up each morning without enemies because they
thought about tomorrow.
Samuel Gradess is an Education Volunteer in Burkina Faso. He is a graduate of St. Lawrence University where he earned a B.S. in Psychology and Francophone Studies. The contents of his articles are his personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.
Your comments and feedback are much appreciated. To engage in further discussion with the editors and contributors of the blog on this topic and other related topics, follow us on twitter @SEADiaspora and/or leave a comment below.
Samuel Gradess is an Education Volunteer in Burkina Faso. He is a graduate of St. Lawrence University where he earned a B.S. in Psychology and Francophone Studies. The contents of his articles are his personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. Government or the Peace Corps.
Your comments and feedback are much appreciated. To engage in further discussion with the editors and contributors of the blog on this topic and other related topics, follow us on twitter @SEADiaspora and/or leave a comment below.


